Lhotse (Nepali: ल्होत्से L'hōtsē [loːtsi]; Tibetan:
ལྷོ་རྩེ, lho rtse) is the fourth highest mountain in the
world at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft), after Mount Everest, K2, and
Kangchenjunga. Part of the
Lhotse is connected to the
latter peak via the South Col.
Lhotse means “South Peak” in
Tibetan. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres
(27,940 ft) above sea level, the mountain comprises the smaller
Lhotse Middle (East) at 8,414 m (27,605 ft), and
Lhotse Shar at 8,383 m (27,503 ft). The summit is on the
border between Tibet and the
Khumbu region of Nepal.
1.3 From Gokyo Ri
2 See also
4 Further reading
5 External links
An early attempt on
Lhotse was by the 1955 International Himalayan
Expedition, headed by Norman Dyhrenfurth. It also included two
Austrians (cartographer Erwin Schneider and Ernst Senn) and two Swiss
(Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel), and was the first expedition in the
Everest area to include Americans (Fred Beckey, George Bell, and
Richard McGowan). The Nepalese liaison officer was Gaya Nanda Vaidya.
They were accompanied by 200 local porters and several climbing
Sherpas. After a brief look at the dangerous southern approaches of
Lhotse Shar, they turned their attention, during September and
October, to the
Western Cwm and the northwest face of Lhotse, on which
they achieved an altitude of about 8,100 metres (26,600 ft). They
were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and low temperatures.
Under Schneider's direction they completed the first map of the
Everest area (1:50,000 photogrammetric). The expedition also made
several short films covering local cultural topics, and made a number
of first ascents of smaller peaks in the
Khumbu region 
The main summit of
Lhotse was first climbed on May 18, 1956, by the
Swiss team of
Ernst Reiss and
Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount
Lhotse Expedition. On May 12, 1970,
Sepp Mayerl and Rolf
Austria made the first ascent of
Lhotse Shar. Lhotse
Middle remained, for a long time, the highest unclimbed named point on
Earth; on May 23, 2001, its first ascent was made by Eugeny
Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a
Lhotse standard climbing route follows the same path as Everest's
South Col route up to the
Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After the Yellow
Band the routes diverge with climbers bound for
Everest taking a left
Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while
Lhotse climbers take a
right further up the
Lhotse face. The last part to the summit leads
through the narrow "Reiss couloir" until the
Lhotse main peak is
By December 2008 371 climbers had summitted
Lhotse while 20 died
during their attempt.
Lhotse was not summited in 2014, 2015, or
2016 due to a series of incidents, however, it was summited again in
May 2017. In 2016 Ang Furba Sherpa died from a fall while working
on the mountain to set ropes.
Nuptse Ridge, Everest,
Lhotse Shar peaks
1955 Attempt by the International Himalayan Expedition.
1956 May 18
First ascent of the main summit:
Fritz Luchsinger and
1965 First attempt on
Lhotse Shar by a Japanese expedition – reached
8,100 m (26,570 ft).
1970 May 12
First ascent of
Lhotse Shar by an Austrian expedition,
Sepp Mayerl, Rolf Walter.
1973 First attempt on the South Face by a Japanese expedition led by
1974 December 25 First attempt of an 8,000 meter peak in winter.
Andrzej Zawada and Andrzej Heinrich reached a height
of 8,250 meters (27,067 ft.).
1975 Attempt on the South Face by Reinhold Messner.
1977 Second ascent of the main summit by a German expedition led by
Dr. G. Schmatz.
1979 Ascent of the main summit by
Jerzy Kukuczka without the use of
supplemental oxygen. His first conquered eight-thousander, and
eventually the last one to climb 10 years later.
1980 April 27 Attempt on
Lhotse Shar by the French climber Nicolas
Jaeger, last seen at 8,200 metres (26,900 ft).
1981 Attempt on the South Face by an Yugoslavian expedition led by
Aleš Kunaver. Vanja Matijevec and Franček Knez reach the top of the
Face but not the summit.
1981 April 30 First solo ascent without the use of supplement oxygen
of the main summit by Hristo Prodanov, as part of the first
Bulgarian Himalayan expedition.
1981 October 16 Second ascent of
Lhotse Shar Switzerland, Colin
1984 May 20/21 Members of the Czechoslovak expedition led by Ivan
Galfy climb the South Face of
Lhotse Shar for the first time (third
overall ascent of
1986 October 16 Ascent by Reinhold Messner, thus becoming the first
person to climb all of the fourteen eight-thousanders.
1987 May 21 the Brazilian Otto William Gerstenberger Junior and the
Swiss Haans Singera reach the summit.
1988 December 31 Krzysztof Wielicki, a Polish climber, completed the
first winter ascent of Lhotse.
1989 October 24
Jerzy Kukuczka perishes while climbing the South Face,
when his secondhand rope breaks. An international expedition led
Reinhold Messner to climb the South Face was unsuccessful.
1990 April 24
Tomo Česen from Slovenia, makes first solo ascent of
South Face of Lhotse. Controversy of his climb is later raised
by the Soviet Himalayan expedition, claiming that his ascent would be
Reinhold Messner would also raise his
1990 October 16
First ascent of South Face by the Soviet Himalayan
expedition members Sergey Bershov and Gennadiy Karataev.
1994 May 13
Carlos Carsolio got mountaintop solo, introducing a world
speed record at 23 h 50 min rise from Base Camp to the summit.
Chantal Mauduit becomes the first woman to reach the summit of
1996 May 17
Anatoli Boukreev solo ascent, world speed record at 21 h
16 min from Base Camp to summit without supplemental oxygen.
1997 Attempt to climb
Lhotse Middle via the ridge between the main
Lhotse Shar by a Russian expedition, led by Vladimir
Bashkirov, who died in the attempt, just below the main summit.
1999 Attempt to climb
Lhotse Middle and traverse the three summits by
a Russian team, failed due to bad weather.
2001 May 23
First ascent of
Lhotse Middle by a Russian
2007 Pemba Doma Sherpa, Nepali mountaineer and two-time summiter of
Mt. Everest, falls to her death from
Lhotse at 8000 m
2011 May 14–15, Michael Horst, American guide, summits Mount Everest
Lhotse without descending below Camp IV (South Col) with less than
21 hours elapsing between the two summits.
2011 On May 20, Indian mountaineer
Arjun Vajpai became the youngest
climber ever to summit Lhotse, aged 17 years, 11 months and 16
The Western Cwm. The
Lhotse Face (centre right) is connected to Mount
Everest (centre left) by the
South Col (centre, lowest point on
Lhotse from gorakshep
The western flank of
Lhotse is known as the
Lhotse Face. Any climber
bound for the
South Col on
Everest must climb this 1,125 m
(3,690 ft) wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50
degree pitches with the occasional 80 degree bulges. High-altitude
climbing Sherpas and the lead climbers will set fixed ropes up this
wall of ice. Climbers and porters need to establish a good rhythm of
foot placement and pulling themselves up the ropes using their jumars.
Two rocky sections called the
Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur
interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face.
On May 19, 2016 the high-altitude mountain worker Ang Furba Sherpa
died when he slipped and fell down
From Gokyo Ri
Annotated image of
Lhotse and surroundings as seen from Gokyo Ri
Lhotse Shar Glacier
^ A height of 8,501 m is sometimes given but official Nepalese and
Chinese mapping agree on 8,516 m.
^ a b "General Info". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 20 December 2009.
^ Dyhrenfurth, Norman G. (1956). "Lhotse, 1955". American Alpine
Journal. 10 (1): 7. Retrieved 10 April 2016.
^ "The Swiss Mount Everest/
Lhotse Expedition 1956". Swiss Foundation
for Alpine Research. Archived from the original on 3 October 2009.
Retrieved 20 December 2009.
^ Marmet, JÜRG (1957). Translated from German by H. Adams Carter.
Everest — Lhotse, 1956". American Alpine Journal. 10 (2): 121.
Retrieved 10 April 2016.
Lhotse Shar". old.risk.ru. Retrieved 17 January 2011.
^ a b Koshelenko, Yuri (2002). "Unraveling the Mystery of Lhotse
Middle". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 44 (76): 166.
Retrieved 10 April 2016.
Lhotse statistics". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 20 December 2009.
^ a b 
^ Aargauer Zeitung, 25 April 2006
^ "Asia, Nepal,
Lhotse Shar: Climbs and Expeditions". Climbs And
Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 17 (2):
434. 1971. Retrieved 8 May 2014.
^ a b "Ascents of Lhotse". peakbagger.com. Retrieved 28 September
^ "Jerzy "Jurek" Kukuczka". everesthistory.com. Retrieved 19 August
^ a b Morgan, Ed (2016).
Lhotse South Face- The Wall of Legends. Bee
Different Books. p. 73. ISBN 978-0-9935148-0-7.
^ "Christo Prodanov". everesthistory.com. Retrieved 19 August
^ a b c d "
Lhotse – Historical Timeline". summitpost.org. Retrieved
28 September 2016.
Krzysztof Wielicki sounds off on Shisha winter climb!".
mounteverest.net. Retrieved 8 May 2014.
^ "Jerzy "Jurek" Kukuczka". everesthistory.com. Retrieved 8 May
^ Cesen, Tomo (1991). "South Face of Lhotse, 1990". 47. The Himalayan
Journal. Retrieved 8 May 2014.
^ Cesen, Tomo (1991). Translated by Maja Košak. "A Look into the
Future, Lhotse's South Face". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine
Club. 33 (65): 1. Retrieved 10 April 2016.
^ Hawley, Elizabeth (1998). "
Lhotse Intermediate, Attempt and
Tragedy". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 6
Lhotse Middle (8414 m)". russianclimb.com. Retrieved 28 September
^ "Famous female
Nepal climber dead". BBC News. May 23, 2007.
Lhotse in Less Than 21 Hours". Climbing.com. Archived
from the original on 2011-09-20. Retrieved 16 October 2011.
^ "Young Indian mountaineer scales Mt Lhotse". The Times of India. 20
May 2011. Retrieved 19 August 2013.
^ Over 200 summitting
Mount Everest today; a Sherpa guide dies
Published: May 19, 2016 12:50 pm
Reiss, Ernst (1959). Mein Weg als Bergsteiger (in German). Frauenfeld,
Huber. OCLC 52217934.
A. Arnette :
Lhotse gaining attention (2014)
Lhotse South Face – The Wall of Legends (2016)
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Lhotse.
Lhotse page on Himalaya-Info.org (German)
Lhotse page on Summitpost
Lhotse on Peakware
Lhotse on GeoFinder.ch
gonomad.com, Hiking by
Lhotse and Everest, feature article
Ascents and fatalities statistics
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Annapurna I Middle Peak
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Green Boots cave"
1921 British reconnaissance
1924 British (Affair of the Dancing Lamas)
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1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police
Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb
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