Le Grand Véfour, the first grand restaurant in Paris, France, was
opened in the arcades of the
Palais-Royal in 1784 by Antoine Aubertot,
as the Café de Chartres, and was purchased in 1820 by Jean
Véfour, who was able to retire within three years, selling the
restaurant to Jean Boissier. A list of regular customers over the
last two centuries includes most of the immortal heavyweights of
French culture and politics, along with the tout-Paris. Sauce
Mornay was one of the preparations introduced at the Grand Véfour.
Closed from 1905 to 1947, a revived Grand Véfour opened with the
Raymond Oliver in charge in the autumn of 1948. Jean
Cocteau designed his menu. The restaurant, with its early
nineteenth-century neoclassical décor of large mirrors in gilded
frames and painted supraportes, continues its tradition of gastronomy
at the same location, "a history-infused citadel of classic French
When it lost one of its three Michelin stars under the régime of
Guy Martin for the Taittinger Group, it was headline news.
^ Elizabeth Sharland, A Theatrical Feast in Paris: From Molière to
Deneuve 2008:40ff, "Le Grand Véfour".
^ A compliment to the aristocratic landlord, the duc de Chartres, soon
to be known as Philippe-Égalité.
^ Rebecca L. Spang, The Invention of the Restaurant:
Paris and Modern
Gastronomic Culture, pp. 6, 64, 182, 187, 206, 220, 224, 226, 238f and
^ Sharland 2008:41.
^ Little brass plaques mark favorite seats of notables like Colette
and Victor Hugo.
^ "Les étoiles du Grand Véfour"
^ Frommer's Guide
^ The third star, awarded Olivier in 1953 and lost with his departure,
had been regained in the 2000 Guide Michelin ("Les étoiles du Grand
^ "Grand Vefour restaurant in
Paris loses third Michelin star"
International Herald-Tribune,, 3 March 2008
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Coordinates: 48°51′58″N 2°20′16″E / 48.8661°N