HOME
The Info List - Broad Peak


--- Advertisement ---



Broad Peak
Broad Peak
(Urdu: بروڈ پیک‬‎)[2] is the 12th highest mountain in the world at 8,051 metres (26,414 ft) above sea level. The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Falchan Kangri is not used among the Balti people.[3] The English name was introduced in 1892 by the British explorer Martin Conway, in reference to the similarly named Breithorn
Breithorn
in the Alps.[4]

Contents

1 Geography 2 Climbing history 3 Timeline 4 See also 5 References 6 Further reading 7 External links

Geography[edit] Broad Peak
Broad Peak
is part of the Gasherbrum
Gasherbrum
massif in Baltistan
Baltistan
on the border of Pakistan
Pakistan
and China.[1] It is located in the Karakoram
Karakoram
mountain range about 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from K2. It has a summit over 1.5 kilometres (0.93 mi) long, thus "Broad Peak".[5] The mountain has several summits: Broad Peak
Broad Peak
(8051 m), Rocky Summit (8028 m), Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Central (8011 m), Broad Peak
Broad Peak
North (7490 m), and Kharut Kangri (6942 m). Climbing history[edit] The first ascent of Broad Peak
Broad Peak
was made between June 8 and 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters nor base camp support.[3] On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent of Skil Brum
Skil Brum
peak (7,360 m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style in 53 hours.[3] Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby Chogolisa
Chogolisa
(7,654 m) on June 27, 1957.[3] In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak
Broad Peak
and retrieved the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.[6][7] In the winter and summer of 2009 there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna.[8] In summer 2012, five members of "Koroška 8000" - Slovenian team (led by Gregor Lačen) summitted the mountain (without supplementary oxygen and without high altitude porters). They tracked the way in deep snow from Camp 4 to the summit and opened the summit to seven more climbers from other expeditions. They all summitted on July 31, 2012.[9] On March 5, 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent. Broad Peak
Broad Peak
was the twelfth Eight-thousander
Eight-thousander
summited in winter time and the tenth Eight-thousander
Eight-thousander
first summitted in winter by Polish climbers.[10] During the descent, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m) and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki, said there are "no chances at all" of finding alive 58-year-old Maciej Berbeka and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalski.[11] On March 8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended.[12] In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them — Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi — ascended successfully but during descent all three of them were lost and declared dead.[13][14] On July 23, 2016, Frenchman Antoine Girard's paraglider flight over Broad Peak
Broad Peak
was the first time a paraglider had flown above an 8,000-metre summit.[15][16][17] Timeline[edit]

1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer of Germany
Germany
on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.[3] 1957 First ascent
First ascent
[18] by an Austrian expedition. 1983 First ascent
First ascent
by a woman, Krystyna Palmowska. 1984 First one-day ascent of an 8000-meter peak (solo) by Krzysztof Wielicki in 21,5 hours. 1994 On July 9, Carlos Carsolio reached the summit, establishing a new solo route now known as Route Carsolio.[19] 2013 On March 5, first winter ascent by Polish expedition.[20] 2013 July, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi of Iran ascended through a new route, named Route Iran. 2014 Hunza Expedition to Broad Peak
Broad Peak
made the summit on 23 July 2014, Karim Hayat reached to main summit and Naseer Uddin turned back from Rocky summit. Karim Hayat became the first person from his village who reached to 8000 m.

See also[edit]

List of mountains in Pakistan Highest Mountains of the World List of Austrian mountaineers Hassan Sadpara

References[edit]

^ a b c "Broad Peak". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2013-07-24.  ^ "Broad Peak: 12th Highest Mountain in the World". About.com.  ^ a b c d e "Broad Peak: Some background and History". Everest News. Retrieved 2014-01-26.  ^ Richard Sale and John Cleare, Climbing the World's 14 Highest Mountains: The History of the 8, 000-Meter Peaks, The Mountaineers, 2000 ^ "Broad Peak". Peakware World Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved 2014-01-26.  ^ „ Broad Peak
Broad Peak
2007“ Expedition in memoriam Markus Kronthaler, June to August 2007 (German) ^ "Highest-Altitude Body Recovery in History". Alpinist. 25 July 2007. Retrieved 2014-01-26.  ^ " Broad Peak
Broad Peak
update: Cristina Castagna lost on descent from C4 - no summits confirmed yet". Explorer's Web. Retrieved 2014-01-26. (Subscription required (help)).  ^ "Koroska 8000 - Broad Peak". Climbing in Slovenia. Retrieved 2016-03-14.  ^ "Polish mountaineers make first winter ascent of Broad Peak". thenews.pl. 5 March 2013. Retrieved 2014-01-26.  ^ "Head of expedition says no chance of finding alive 2 Polish climbers missing in Himalayas". Associated Press. 7 March 2013. Retrieved 2013-03-08.  ^ "Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski". Planetmountain. 8 March 2013. Retrieved 2013-03-09.  ^ "Iranian Broad Peak
Broad Peak
New Route: Complications on Descent". Explorer's Web. Retrieved 2014-01-26. (Subscription required (help)).  ^ Rescue attempts for Iranian climbers http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/2013/07/broad-peak-new-route-iranian-climbers.html#u3 ^ http://www.xcmag.com/2016/07/antoine-girard-breaks-8100m-in-karakoram/ ^ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6JeWsrsn1E ^ http://www.antoinegirard.fr/en/le-film-pakistan-airway/ ^ "First ascent". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 2013-07-24.  ^ " Broad Peak
Broad Peak
8047m Austrian Karakoram
Karakoram
Expedition 1957". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 23 October 2017.  ^ " Broad Peak
Broad Peak
first winter ascent by Polish expedition!". planetmountain.com. May 3, 2013. Retrieved 2013-07-24. 

Further reading[edit]

Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5 Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak
Broad Peak
8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart. Kurt Diemberger, Spirits of the Air, 1994. Mountaineers Books, ISBN 0-89886-408-9 Hermann Buhl, Achttausand: Druber und Drunter, 1955, Munchen. Afterward by Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger
describes the Broad Peak
Broad Peak
expedition. Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights) by Dušan Jelinčič, ISBN / EAN: 961-6387-75-8 Anna Czerwińska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turystyka", Warszawa 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5 Jacek Hugo-Bader, Długi film o miłości. Powrót na Broad Peak, Polish published by Znak, Cracow 2014, ISBN 978-83-240-2993-8

External links[edit]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Broad Peak.

Broad Peak
Broad Peak
on Himalaya-Info.org (German) Broad Peak
Broad Peak
on Summitpost First Ascent: The official Website of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram expedition 1957 on BroadPeak.org

v t e

Eight-thousanders

Everest

South Summit

K2 Kangchenjunga Lhotse

Lhotse
Lhotse
Middle Lhotse
Lhotse
Shar

Makalu Cho Oyu Dhaulagiri Manaslu Nanga Parbat Annapurna I

Annapurna I East Annapurna I Middle Peak

Gasherbrum
Gasherbrum
I Broad Peak Gasherbrum
Gasherbrum
II Shishapangma

List of ski descents List of climbers List of deaths

Authority control

WorldCat Identities VIAF: 239524

.