BROAD PEAK (Urdu : بروڈ پیک) is the 12th highest mountain
in the world at 8,051 metres (26,414 ft) above sea level. The literal
translation of "Broad Peak" to FALCHAN KANGRI
(ཨིྰན་ཨངརི་) is not accepted among the Balti
people . The English name was introduced in 1892 by the British
explorer Martin Conway , in reference to the similarly named Breithorn
in the Alps.
* 1 Geography
* 2 Climbing history
* 3 Timeline
* 4 See also
* 5 References
* 6 Further reading
* 7 External links
Broad Peak is part of the
Gasherbrum massif in
Baltistan on the
China . It is located in the Karakoram
mountain range about 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from K2 . It has a summit
over 1.5 kilometres (0.93 mi) long, thus "Broad Peak".
The mountain has several summits:
Broad Peak (8051 m), Rocky Summit
Broad Peak Central (8011 m),
Broad Peak North (7490 m), and
Kharut Kangri (6942 m).
The first ascent of
Broad Peak was made between June 8 and 9, 1957 by
Fritz Wintersteller ,
Marcus Schmuck ,
Kurt Diemberger , and Hermann
Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt
by the team was made on May 29 where
Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt
Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). This was also accomplished
without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters nor base
On the same expedition,
Marcus Schmuck and
Fritz Wintersteller made a
flash first ascent of
Skil Brum peak (7,360 m) on June 19, 1957 in
Alpine style in 53 hours.
Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to
Chogolisa (7,654 m) on June 27, 1957.
In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed
Broad Peak and
retrieved the corpse of
Markus Kronthaler , who had died on the
mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.
In the winter and summer of 2009 there were no summits. There was one
winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was
Cristina Castagna .
In summer 2012, five members of "Koroška 8000" - Slovenian team (led
by Gregor Lačen) summitted the mountain (without supplementary oxygen
and without high altitude porters). They tracked the way in deep snow
from camp 4 to the summit and opened the summit to 7 more individuals
from other expeditions. They all summitted on July 31, 2012.
On March 5, 2013
Maciej Berbeka , Adam Bielecki , Tomasz Kowalski and
Artur Małek made the first winter ascent.
Broad Peak was the 12th
Eight-thousander summited in winter time and the 10th Eight-thousander
first summitted in winter by Polish climbers. During the descent,
Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m)
and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition
Krzysztof Wielicki said there are "no chances at all" of finding alive
Maciej Berbeka and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalski. On March
8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended.
In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend
through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them —
Aidin Bozorgi , Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi — ascended
successfully but during descent all three of them were lost and
* 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer of
Germany on the SW
side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.
First ascent by an Austrian expedition.
First ascent by a woman, Krystyna Palmowska .
* 1984 First one-day ascent of an 8000-meter peak (solo) by
Krzysztof Wielicki in 21,5 hours.
* 1994 On July 9,
Carlos Carsolio reached the summit, establishing a
new solo route now known as Route Carsolio.
* 2013 On March 5, first winter ascent by Polish expedition.
* 2013 July,
Aidin Bozorgi , Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi of
Iran ascended through a new route, named Route Iran .
* 2014 Hunza Expedition to
Broad Peak made the summit on 23 July
2014, Karim Hayat reached to main summit and Naseer Uddin turned back
from Rocky summit. Karim Hayat became the first person from his
village who reached to 8000 m.
* List of mountains in
* Highest Mountains of the World
List of Austrian mountaineers
List of Austrian mountaineers
* ^ A B C "Broad Peak". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
* ^ "Broad Peak: 12th Highest Mountain in the World". About.com.
* ^ A B C D E "Broad Peak: Some background and History". Everest
News. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
* ^ Richard Sale and John Cleare, Climbing the World's 14 Highest
Mountains: The History of the 8, 000-Meter Peaks, The Mountaineers,
* ^ "Broad Peak". Peakware World Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved
* ^ „
Broad Peak 2007“ Expedition in memoriam Markus Kronthaler,
June to August 2007 (German)
* ^ "Highest-Altitude Body Recovery in History". Alpinist. 25 July
2007. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
* ^ "
Broad Peak update:
Cristina Castagna lost on descent from C4 -
no summits confirmed yet". Explorer's Web. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
(Subscription required (help)).
* ^ "Koroska 8000 - Broad Peak". Climbing in Slovenia. Retrieved
* ^ "Polish mountaineers make first winter ascent of Broad Peak".
thenews.pl. 5 March 2013. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
* ^ "Head of expedition says no chance of finding alive 2 Polish
climbers missing in Himalayas". Associated Press. 7 March 2013.
* ^ "Broad Peak: all hope lost for
Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz
Kowalski". Planetmountain. 8 March 2013. Retrieved 2013-03-09.
* ^ "Iranian
Broad Peak New Route: Complications on Descent".
Explorer's Web. Retrieved 2014-01-26. (Subscription required (help)).
* ^ Rescue attempts for Iranian climbers
* ^ "First ascent". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
* ^ http://broadpeak.org/en/broad_peak.php
* ^ "
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!".
planetmountain.com. May 3, 2013. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
* Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in
the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
* Marcus Schmuck,
Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann
Buhl , 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in
* Kurt Diemberger, Spirits of the Air, 1994. Mountaineers Books,
* Hermann Buhl, Achttausand: Druber und Drunter, 1955, Munchen.
Kurt Diemberger describes the
Broad Peak expedition.
* Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights) by
Dušan Jelinčič , ISBN / EAN:
* Anna Czerwińska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two)
"Sport i Turystyka", Warszawa 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5
* Jacek Hugo-Bader, Długi film o miłości. Powrót na Broad Peak,
Polish published by Znak, Cracow 2014, ISBN 978-83-240-2993-8
Wikimedia Commons has media